Address: Pansea Beach
Beneath a thatched roof at Phuket's beachfront Amanpuri Resort, chef Naoki Okumura serves the same delicate French-Japanese creations as at his slick Kyoto restaurant. The one difference at this 26-seat spot: The diners heremany of them hotel guestswander in bikini-clad and barefoot. But resort food this isn't: The sashimi is fresh from Tokyo, and even the burger, made with rice and topped with chicken teriyaki, surprises. The 11-course kaiseki tasting menu is a good choice (and carefully calibrated portions won't leave you comatose); standouts include the foie gras and steamed okra custard, and the beef grilled over charcoal with pumpkin and magnolia leaf. Instead of saving room for the ho-hum desserts, spring for the Naoki Wagyu steak, served with hand-grated wasabi (entrées, $19$81).