Address: 42 Moliere
Seviche is the draw at this airy spot in Mexico City's upscale Polanco district. Chef Richard Sandoval returns home after making his mark north of the border to offer up fish prepared with the same herbs and chilies piled up in local markets. Among the appetizers, the seared scallops with pungent papalo seeds served on watermelon slivers are as good as the seviche. Entrées can be uneven, but the tuna marinated in raw brown sugar and ancho chilies picks up the slack. This is a prime place to observe the social practices of Polanco's business elite, who often ignore dinner companions while taking cell phone calls (entrées, $11$19).