Address: Prinses Irenestraat 19

Tel: 31-20-644-0100

Restaurant As—accessed through a courtyard with a rusty gate strung with Christmas lights—occupies the ground floor of Platform 21, a cavernous space that doubles as a progressive art gallery. In this former chapel and abbey creativity is key: Rough-edged pine communal tables sit in the center of the circular building, gray walls are painted with abstract designs, and paper airplanes attached to rows of roses (in honor of an origami exhibit upstairs) hover over the bar. From the alfresco kitchen, outfitted with old-fashioned gas stoves and a Tuscan oven, comes a daily changing menu of dishes such as duck with prosciutto-wrapped turnips in a lentil, squash, and apple-infused stew. An excellent array of Dutch cheeses end things on a high note (prix fixes, $54–$78).