Address: 3 Plaza de la Independencia
Everything about the restaurant at the brand-new Hospes hotel, from its imperceptible entryway to its tiny kitchen to its chilly decor, suggests that the owners underestimated its 26-year-old chef, Francisco Morales. But he has quickly proved a major talent, and Senzone is the city's most buzzed-about table. Rare for a Spanish chef, Morales worships the vegetable, keeping it in its nearly natural state. Paper-thin slices of barely cooked calamaridelicately chewy like linguineadorn a gorgeously crisp pile of haricots verts; for dessert, tender baby carrots, dusted with little more than "earth" (spinach powder), radiate sweetness. Morales has an equally deft hand with other ingredients, from the rich sauté of trompettes de la mort mushrooms topped with translucent slices of Iberian pancetta to fresh cod encrusted with scallions. Thanks to his sommelier wife, Rut, the wine list is just as thoughtful (entrées, $39$48).