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Hot List 2008

Texture, London

Address: 34 Portman Street

Tel: 44-0-20-7224-0028

Don't be put off by the slightly precious name: Texture is an extraordinary restaurant where complex textures are matched by sensuous, delicious flavors. Chef Aggi Sverrisson and sommelier Xavier Rousset have profited from turns at Oxford's acclaimed Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, but their spare yet inviting place has a personality entirely its own. Spring for the tasting menu (in a rare twist, there is also a seafood-only option) with wine pairings. Even if you've always hated cod, you must try Sverrisson's Icelandic version: The succulent fish is accentuated by a crisp olive tuile, earthy black truffle, and chewy chickpeas. Finish with the Trio of Blood Orange, a beautiful composition of slices, puree, and granita with a muscat sabayon (tasting menu, $110).

Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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