Late afternoon is the time to book one of the ten glass-walled treatment rooms at this spa in the Renaissance Shanghai Yuyuan, a center city hotel overlooking the historic Yuyuan Garden. Begin with the Honey Mango Body Polish ($59), in which raw sugar gets sprinkled on top of lotion to exfoliate without irritation (equally novel is the bowl of two goldfish placed beneath guests' face pillow). Rise for the rinse, taking in boats cruising the Huangpu River and the glowing neon of the futuristic skyline at dusk. Soak in the sights while sipping champagne in the rose petalstrewn bath, then get horizontal again for the Aroma Fusion massage ($80), a seriously calming lymphatic and Swedish combo. Linger in the funky purple-hued, palm treefilled lounge, a refreshing change from the low-lit lotus-filled spa spaces elsewhere (massages, $44$108).