The lobby of this intimate resort is a 100-year-old carved wooden house incorporating Malay, Chinese, and colonial influences and stocked with funky antiques; dining is in a soaring pavilion by the pool, presided over by fanciful sculptures of Hindu deities. Eighteen spacious bungalows nestle around shaded walkways and lush tropical gardens, giving the place the tranquil atmosphere of a secluded colonial-era compound, with hand-hewn furniture and copper tubs in the outdoor bathrooms. The seven Bhagavad Gita suites have detached bathhouses equipped with Lombok-style bucket-showers; out front, private gardens with plunge pools open onto the white-powder Sire Beach. The Tugu is surrounded by farming villages and virgin wilderness, with the only other modern note an adjacent 18-hole golf course.
When to go: June through August for fine weather.
Which room to book: Suite 107, which has a seaside garden, is at the resort's yonder end, offering maximum privacy.