Four years, $380 million, and the talents of architect Norman Foster have given this 110-year-old fairy-tale castle hotel a stunning update, with two new modern wings, a 43,000-square-foot state-of-the-art spa, and 173 guest rooms. Several unique original details were kept or restoredsuch as the lobby's painted wood ceiling (smartly matched with metallic chandeliers) and the old-fashioned floral wallpaper in Deluxe Suite 4112but in general the decor, even in the historic building, is more 2009 than 1899. A dramatically lit skywalk-style hallway leads to either the new golf or spa wings. Standard doubles, while comfortable and with a bathroom that centers around a deep tub, are hard-pressed to merit the $707 asking price, as there are no butlers on handunusual at this price pointor technological standouts. But the staff are efficient and the location unbeatable.
When to go: You can most appreciate the groundswhich include a pool and tennis courtsin summer.
Which room to book: Those in the spa and golf wings are larger and more contemporary than those in the original building. For a view of the city, splurge for a deluxe double.