After $54 million of cosmetic enhancements, the former Bel Age hotel, off Sunset Strip, has been transformed into a good-time glamour girl. The instant you enter the shimmering white-and-gold lobby, the doting begins. Reservations? Newspapers? Directions? Fresh-faced front desk clerks are eager to help. All 200 rooms are like bright studios, with velvet sofas that encourage lounging. Other furnishings are equally swish: mock-croc chairs, a slender marble writing desk, and a bathroom so lavishly mosaicked that Hadrian himself would approve. (One quibble: No self-respecting starlet would stand for the bed's scratchy sheets.) Day and night, PYTs mob the rooftop pool deck, and several good restaurants are a short stroll away. For utter indulgence, however, look no further than the hotel's first floor, and Gordon Ramsay's eponymous restaurant.
When to go: Awards season (Jan.-Mar.) is prime time for poolside people-watching.
Which room to book: Crown Suites are only slightly pricier than the standard rooms but have heaps more space and better views.