2300 Lincoln Park W.

Tel: 773-868-0002

Much like a swank dinner party that's just a tad out of your league, an evening at L2O will have you feeling exhilarated—and restrained. The tables of wine barons and trust funders and the formal, over-attentive wait staff temper the whimsy of chef Laurent Gras's intricate cuisine. Dishes range from a trifle composed of layers of salted cod, potato, and caviar to an entrée of lobster, carrot, and pineapple segments arranged geometrically around a coconut-powder garnish. Meals are punctuated with quirky amuse-bouches such as frozen strawberry marshmallows, and end with sweet flourishes like a fluffy praline soufflé.
Tip: Seafood shines brighter than other, meatier main dishes (prix fixes, $110–$165).