3334 Pacific Coast Hwy.

Tel: 949-650-6505

Only the most attention-grabbing wheels get the prime spots in front of this iconic 1926 building on the Pacific Coast Highway. The site of The Arches, onetime Hollywood hideout of legends like Humphrey Bogart and John Wayne, has been transformed into A Restaurant. Husband-and-wife team Tim and Liza Goodell have kept much of the clubby feel and old-world aura (as well as classics like French onion soup, served in an ornate goblet)—but brought a smart, modern sensibility. Delicate tomato tart is topped with creamy goat cheese, tempura eggplant is paired with spicy yellowfin tuna, and there are daily changing pastas like tagliatelle with lamb ragù, sheep's-milk ricotta, and mint. Meat never goes out of style, especially when it is an intensely satisfying eight-ounce flatiron with a side of fluffy sweet corn gratin. Skip the too-dry grilled swordfish in favor of the flavorful wild red king salmon dressed with pancetta on a bed of chanterelle mushrooms.
Tip: Pumpkin pie with homemade whipped cream, caramel, and toasted pecans is something to be thankful for any day of the year (entrées, $14–$49).