923 16th Street N.W.

Tel: 202-509-8000

The hotly anticipated Adour is the star of the renovated St. Regis hotel, just a few blocks from the White House. Alain Ducasse's new breed of luxury restaurant is contemporary and informal, with less crippling prices than you'd expect. Designer David Rockwell has kept the ornate carved wooden ceilings but modernized the dining room with white leather armchairs, white gauze curtains, and glass walls revealing temperature-controlled wine bottles. Ricotta gnocchi is topped with leaves of sautéed lettuce, crisp prosciutto, and wild mushrooms, and a duck breast fillet is garnished with niçoise olives and radishes, with a black cast-iron casserole of polenta served on the side. The airy Gala soufflé tastes like pure, concentrated essence of apple. Despite the economy, Ducasse has kept lavish treats like his famous $190 black truffle tasting menu. Some traditions die hard.
Tip: The wine list has many lesser-known French vintages and interesting choices for under $40 (entrées, $25–$46).