239 W. Broadway

Tel: 212-219-2777

Restaurateur Drew Nieporent's new TriBeCa place has minimalist decor that borders upon the austere: pale chartreuse banquettes and unadorned cream-colored walls. Chef Paul Liebrandt, known for zany creations at past restaurants (eel with crystallized violets, anyone?), has calmed down a bit, but his food remains wonderfully original. The foie gras is wrapped in hibiscus-beet gelée, and the artichoke soup, at once hot and cold, is laced with peekytoe crab and strands of smoked pappardelle. The prix fixe is less expensive than at comparable restaurants, and the French wine list has bottles between $32 and $55.
Tip: Try pastry chef Robert Truitt's salted caramel brioche with passion fruit curd, banana, and Stilton (three-course prix fixe, $79; tasting menu, $120).