21 Lilla Nygatan
After turns in some of the world's best kitchens, chefs Björn Frantzén and Daniel Lindeberg have struck out on their own with an innovative new restaurant. The 18-seat space in Old Town is almost astonishingly plain, but the creative 11-course tasting menu is served with an ample helping of humor. Swedish actor Stellan Skarsgård narrates the cheese course via an iPod that is brought to the table, and in a dessert "burger," the bun is a macaroon; the burger, chocolate; the lettuce, sliced mint; and so on. In lesser hands it might be a clumsy gimmick, but here, the ridiculous is elevated to the sublime.
Tip: Old Town gets raucous on weekends; opt instead for a Wednesday or Thursday (prix fixes, $94$130; tasting menu, $166).