Cobb Road, Lyme Regis
The gastronomic invasion of Britain's West Country marches steadily on with the addition of Mark Hix's laid-back, ocean-gazing Hix Oyster & Fish House. The menu adheres to the most straightforward of directives: beautiful ingredients simply prepared. A velvety fish soup with cider brandy is served in a warm ceramic pitcher; the oysters are so briny that they glitter on the tongue; and a pear and rose hip trifle is a pillow of fragrant cream. During the day, an endless ocean panorama stretches in front of the terrace; at night, oil lamps bathe the sparkling white-and-wood room in a moody, languid ambience.
Tip: Ask for a downstairs table so you can watch the chefs in action (entrées, $14$45).