Hot List 2009

Igarashi, Tokyo

Hagiwara Bldg. 5, second floor

Tel: 03-3447-9893

On the second floor of an unremarkable office building in the Ebisu neighborhood, this modest-looking restaurant is where native cognoscenti come to feast on sublime kaiseki dinners worth three times their price. Chef Akira Igarashi's multicourse extravaganzas range from excellent sashimi and grilled items to rich simmered dishes. The menu changes daily, but if there are palm-sized Nagasaki oysters, they will ruin you for any other bivalve. There is an à la carte menu as well, which includes a flawless whole grilled amadai frosted with salt.
Tip: Don't worry if you don't speak Japanese—simply say omakase (prix fixes, $65–$88).

Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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