Hagiwara Bldg. 5, second floor
On the second floor of an unremarkable office building in the Ebisu neighborhood, this modest-looking restaurant is where native cognoscenti come to feast on sublime kaiseki dinners worth three times their price. Chef Akira Igarashi's multicourse extravaganzas range from excellent sashimi and grilled items to rich simmered dishes. The menu changes daily, but if there are palm-sized Nagasaki oysters, they will ruin you for any other bivalve. There is an à la carte menu as well, which includes a flawless whole grilled amadai frosted with salt.
Tip: Don't worry if you don't speak Japanesesimply say omakase (prix fixes, $65$88).