163 First Avenue

Tel: book online at momofuku.com

The online reservations system is maddening, the stools are uncomfortable, and the service is less than warm. And still, chef David Chang has New York's most jaded eaters logging on every morning at 10 a.m. sharp to try and snag one of the 14 kitchenside seats at his latest East Village restaurant. And for what? Chef David Chang's high-flying cooking—prepared just inches away from you and served by the chefs themselves. For one course, raw fluke is carefully sliced into thin ribbons, arranged in a tidy pile in a puddle of tangy buttermilk and sprinkled with chives and poppy seeds; later, a frozen block of foie gras over lychees, riesling gelée, and pignoli brittle is a shockingly good light-rich, sweet-salty combination. Despite the artfulness of his dishes, Chang's food is never fussy—and always deeply satisfying. To wit, a final dessert of deliciously greasy fried dough over nutty black sesame gelato and lemon cream. Wine pairings, available at three price points, are equally creative.
Tip: For a quick Momofuku fix, head to Chang's new Momofuku Bakery/Milk Bar, at 207 Second Avenue, for pork buns, cereal milk, and marshmallow-cornflake cookies (ten-course prix fixe, $100).