6-29 Dean Street
This Soho stalwart (dating to 1926), and favorite of the neighborhood's media mob, has undergone a major makeover since famed chef Marco Pierre White turned over the kitchen to hot newcomers Sam and Eddie Hart last year. The brothers, who made their mark at London's acclaimed Barrafina and Fino, have introduced an unfussy, menu of modern British dishes like a succulent crab mayonnaise and a nicely gamey pheasant with barley and pancetta. There are few missteps, aside the decidedly retro two-pound cover charge for bread, olives, and tap water.
Tip: VIPs go straight for table nine, room two, by the window (entrées, $12$40).