999 Ashford Ave.
Puerto Rico's rock star chef Wilo Benet brings country-style lechón to the city at his third venture, Varita. The cafeteria-like space on the first floor of the Condado Plaza Hotel has salvaged-wood floors, butcher-block tables, tiles made from coconut husks, and funky orange artwork dangling overhead. The wood-burning rotisserie turns out luscious slow-cooked pork belly, crisp-skinned suckling pig, and moist pork shoulder. Swine is the focus, but there are also tasty thin-crust pizzas and addictive small bitestry the sorullitos (crisp corn fritters).
Tip: Benet's personal favorite is St. Louis ribs with his own special barbecue sauce (entrées, $10$23).