Mega-chef Gordon Ramsay has entrusted the kitchen at his new gastro-hotel, York & Albany, to the supremely talented Angela Hartnett. The refurbished pub has a dual personality: A spacious ground-floor restaurant fronts a courtyard garden, and a subterranean den with private tables encircles an open kitchen. Here, Hartnett turns out perfectly balanced dishes, beginning with the little jar of chicken liver parfait that accompanies the bread basket. Venison is a must, but if it isn't available, try the pumpkin risotto with aged Gorgonzola. Classic treacle sponge pudding with vanilla custard is sticky and denseas it should be.
Tip: Pick up pastries, cheeses, and wines at the adjoining Nonna's deli, named for Hartnett's Italian grandmother (entrées, $14$45).