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Atrani, Atrani's insider take:

It comes across as a salty, rough-and-ready kind of place, but back in the day, Atrani was the Beverly Hills to Amalfi's Los Angeles, where rich merchants built their mansions. That all came to an end when the Pisans sacked the town in 1187; but its sudden fall from grace had the effect of preserving intact many architectural features that have been lost elsewhere, and today Atrani is a fascinating place to wander whitewashed backstreets that suddenly become long souklike tunnels, or climb steps that duck under arches and squeeze between houses (you can see why perspective-defying artist M. C. Escher was inspired by the town, which recurs several times in his work). Modest but genuine attractions include a small family-oriented beach, a graceful ancient church (San Salvatore de Birecto) where the doges of Amalfi were traditionally sworn in, and, around halfway up the main street, a great local seafood trattoria, A' Paranza.—Lee Marshall

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