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Il Matterello, Buenos Aires

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517 Martín Rodríguez
La Boca
Buenos Aires
Tel: 54 11 4307 0529's insider take:

Juan B. Stagnaro's unassuming trattoria on a sleepy side street in La Boca is a family affair. His wife emigrated to Buenos Aires from Modena, bringing along an impressive recipe collection, focusing on homemade pasta. These days, multiple generations of Stagnaros are likely to greet you, either from the steamy kitchen or as they hop from table to table, toting mile-high plates of superb pasta. The ravioli Genovese—little pillows of pasta packed with veal, pork, beef, and cheese—stands out among the fine selection of stuffed pastas, and toothsome tagliatelle match perfectly with Il Matterello's rich, Old World ragú. (Modena, after all, is just up the road from Bologna, ragú central.) Rounded out with robust red wine, tiramisu big enough to share, and grappa all around, dinner with the Stagnaros reminds us that there's more to Argentina than great beef.

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 12.30 pm to 3 pm and 8.30 pm to midnight, Sundays 12.30 pm to 3 pm.

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