Athens

The pace of change in Athens was slow—until the Olympics. Despite near-ridicule from most of the rest of the world when it appeared that the entire city was still a building site as late as June 2004, the Athenians pulled it off and the event was universally hailed as a triumph. It was also the most expensive Olympics in history: The bill came to roughly $800 for each man, woman, and child in the country. Still, in the end, the organizing committee claimed an overall profit of about $9 million, even though all 36 of the spiffy purpose-built venues now lie forlorn and empty. The government plans to lease most of them to the private sector, with many to remain as sports facilities (maybe with restaurants, cafés or theme parks attached) and others to become conference centers, museums, or schools.

One thing that hasn't changed—much—is the Acropolis. Many people overnight in Athens before or after their island ferry specifically to see the great hill of temples—and they're right to do so. First timers won't notice, but access to the monuments has recently been improved and there's an ongoing restoration project that also takes in other sites. Most other museums are free on Sunday and national holidays.