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Don Emiliano, San José del Cabo

Blvd. Mijares 27
San José del Cabo
Tel: 52 624 142 0266's insider take:

At Don Emiliano's, elegant women with slicked-back chignons and courtly gentlemen in tailored guayaberas gossip in rapid Spanish as they judge haute Mexican cuisine à la Chef Margarita Carrillo de Salinas. Sophisticated diners who've tasted the latest from Mexico City's reinas de las cocinas (queens of the kitchens) sample tamales with seasonal baby spinach or huitlacoche wrapped in light masa, flaky empanadas stuffed with flor de calabaza, and an aromatic catch of the day glazed with achiote. Such regional ingredients do appear on other Mexican menus in Los Cabos, but Salinas uses them creatively, blending them into the popular shrimp chile rellenos with goat cheese sauce and crisp fried cilantro. Slatted wood awnings filter the dry Baja air into dining gardens and terraces where skillful mariachis display their mastery without blasting diners' eardrums. The menu always includes crowd-pleasures like jalapeño martinis, fresh artisan cheese with salsa verde, cinnamon ice cream, and chile–chocolate desserts.—Maribeth Mellin

Open daily 6 to 11 pm.

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