The best-known restaurants in Baltimore may be in Little Italy, but that neighborhood is only the starting point for exploring the city's excellent ethnic and regional cooking. These days, the Baltimore dining scene is concentrated in Fells Point and adjacent Harbor East, where the emphasis is on Mediterranean cuisines, seafood (of course), and sinful Southern cooking. But nearly every self-respecting chef in Baltimore offers a special crab cake; the delicacy is even part of the ballpark-food lineup at Camden Yards. Much of the fun is in discovering fabulous food in unlikely locations, such as Gertrude's Restaurant at the Baltimore Museum of Art or the city's best crab cakes at a nondescript suburban intersection. Dinner reaches a peak at 8 pm, and since the best places can be very busy, even on weeknights, reservations a day or so in advance are suggested.