Concierge.com's insider take:
Michelin-starred Irish-born chef Brian McKenna, who opened Gordon Ramsay's Verre restaurant in Dubai, brought his scientific brand of gastronomy to Beijing in 2007 and hasn't looked back. A paid-up member of the El Bulli generation, McKenna experiments with strong flavors and presents his cuisine with style and humor. Standout dishes include a cappuccino of curried sweet potato purée with Asian vegetables, and crab tempura with risotto, avocado ice cream and lemongrass bubbles. Although the location is inauspicious, at the Shangri-La hotel in the western suburbs, this really is world-class prix fixe dining. The garrulous McKenna also spends time working the dining room, and loves to spin a culinary yarn or two.
Open Tuesdays through Sundays, 5 pm to 1 am.