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Vau, Berlin

54-55 Jägerstrasse
Germany 10117
Tel: 49 30 202 9730
view web site ›'s insider take:

Fashion and food intersect at Vau, generally considered the most interesting contemporary German restaurant in the capital. Count on dining in this long, brightly lit room with terra-cotta walls amid a curious mix of earnest gastro-intellectual types wearing weird eyeglasses, flashy Russian fat wallets, local Do-you-know-who-I-am? (No) film and media personalities, and a sprinkling of government ministers and tourists. Animating the place is chef Kolja Kleeberg himself, a culinary character with an unruly mane of hair, the requisite bizarre glasses, and an ostentatiously flashed tongue stud. Happily, Kleeberg's outstanding cooking justifies this scene and prevents it from becoming insufferably pretentious. Following Kleeberg's restless and often brilliant imagination, the menu changes often, but dishes like cold Jerusalem artichoke soup with quail-egg yolks and a side of venison tartare; lobster with mango and black olives; and slow-roasted pork belly with grilled scallops are honestly thrilling. Reservations are essential.

Closed Sundays.

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