I spent two months in the Puna area of the Big Island. Many Hawaiians call it the "No-man's land". It is a very free laid back existence there, and it's so lush, you eat off the trees the whole time you are there. I practically did. I spent a month in an eco-friendly yoga retreat there, and met some of the most amazing people. Avocados, Noni Fruit, Passionfruit, etc., all there for the picking and free of charge. My skin glowed by the time I left and I lost so much weight, but in a healthy way. Many beaches are deserted. The locals were more than welcoming. Thirsty? Smash one of the many coconuts on the side of the road. No are compares to this area, although Volcanoes National Park is the most celebrated destination. But deeper south, where all the black sand beaches are, you will still find the true spirit of Hawaii alive and well. Aloha!