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Martín Berasategui, Lasarte-Oria

4 Calle Loidi
Lasarte-Oria
Spain
Tel: 34 943 366 471
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Concierge.com's insider take:

A sweeping, glass-walled space with views over rolling green hills, this restaurant near San Sebastián—named after its three-star Michelin chef—embraces elaborate nueva cocina. The appetizer and entrée descriptions on the menu are several sentences long (and marked with the year that Berasategui debuted them), yet the dishes themselves are subtle and nuanced. One of his newer creations, a 2006 dish of oysters with watercress chlorophyll, arugula, and green apple, dressed in a lemongrass and fennel cream, is a pleasing blend of herbal and mineral notes, with a fresh saline kick. Berasategui's signature mille-feuille of smoked eel, foie gras, and spring onions dates to 1995; it may sound like an odd combination, but there's a reason why it's still on the menu after all these years.

Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Lunch only, Sundays. Closed mid-December to mid-January.

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