see + do
Concierge.com's insider take:
A must-go destination for oenophiles, the Rioja region was turning out serious vintages even back in the 1970s and '80s, when the rest of the country was still making plonk. The best way to get access to top winemakers and their wineries is to go with a knowledgeable guide. Tenedor Tours, based in San Sebastián, runs all kinds of food and wine tours throughout the Rioja as well as the surrounding Basque country; these let you sample the region's classic reds made from tempranillo grapes, along with a growing number of notable whites and rosados, or rosés (34-943-313-929; www.tenedortours.com ). If you'd rather go on your own, the Rioja region's tourism department has a fairly detailed website that lists everything from accommodations and the location of wine museums to wine-tasting classes. Not every winery is open to the public, but if you sign up via the site (registration is free), you'll be able to download brochures that list visiting hours and contact information for all those that do welcome tourists (lariojaturismo.com; 34-941-291-260).
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