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Locke-Ober, Boston

3 Winter Place
Boston , Massachusetts
Tel: 617 542 1340
view web site ›'s insider take:

While its neighborhood has seen better days (it's now blemished with lowbrow shops and vacant lots), arriving at the hidden-away Locke-Ober is like stepping into a time warp. This historic restaurant (it's the city's third-oldest, after Durgin Park and the Union Oyster House) has been serving hearty New England fare to the cream of Boston's crop since 1875. Not much has changed as far as the decor and the menu are concerned—an attentive bow-tied staff picks up dishes like clams casino, JFK lobster stew, Boston scrod, Dover sole, and flaming baked Alaska at a polished-wood bar. What has evolved is the quality of the food. Boston chef Lydia Shire took over the kitchen in 2003 and added artistic presentation to the traditional gentleman's-club cuisine. She slow-roasts duck with tarragon and garlic and pairs it with miso and pea tendrils, for example. Despite the hefty price tag, everyone from deal-making businessmen to couples celebrating special occasions swear by the classic Lobster Savannah—two pounds of lobster meat sautéed with red and green peppers, mushrooms, and a sherry sauce before being returned to its shell. True to its Brahmin roots, Locke-Ober is open only for dinner and closed (how could you even ask?) on Sundays.

Open Mondays through Fridays 5 to 10 pm, Saturdays 5 to 11 pm.

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