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Concierge.com's insider take:
Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass was a wasteland not long ago. You could practically see tumbleweed bowling down Front Street. Now it's all lofts and home stores and converted factories, but it has a totally different feel from the other gentrified Brooklyn 'hoods, since the real estate here is nearly all warehouses. Stroll down to the Empire-Fulton Ferry State Park, which almost feels beachy in summer with its picnic lawn and view of the Lower Manhattan skyline (nysparks.state.ny.us/parks/info.asp?parkID=70). Braving the line at Grimaldi's Pizzeria is something of a Brooklyn tradition, and it's certainly worth a stab to sample one of the coal brick-oven fired pies—try the fresh mozzarella, tomato, and basil (19 Old Fulton St.; 718-858-4300; www.grimaldis.com). For a pick-me-up afterwards, swing by Jacques Torres on Water Street—its signature hot chocolate, a heady mix of cocoa powder, allspice, cinnamon, and sweet ancho chile peppers, packs a nice punch (66 Water St.; 718-875-9772; www.mrchocolate.com). Keep walking west on Front and you reach a curious neighborhood called Vinegar Hill, a cluster of small Federal-era brick row houses that is a throwback to an even earlier era. If you keep walking west (it gets a bit hard to navigate through the projects and strange road system), you reach the Navy Yards, with its burgeoning population of artist-craftspeople and its newish movie studio complex, Steiner Studios.
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