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Concierge.com's insider take:
Times have changed since Red Hook housed the city's longshoreman—the docks once depicted in the Mafioso flick On the Waterfront now greet the Queen Mary 2 when it cruises into town. Gentrification on Van Brunt Street is proceeding apace, and the happening strip is a good starting off point to get your bearings. Stop by Hope and Anchor for delish veggie omelets and Bloody Marys (347 Van Brunt St.; 718-237-0276; www.hopeandanchordiner.com). Baked is like an edgier Magnolia Bakery, with frosted Bundt cake, Wi-Fi, and a groovy interior by local firm Hivemindesign (359 Van Brunt St.; 718-222-0345; www.bakednyc.com). Red Hook Bait & Tackle has emerged as the neighborhood's de facto watering hole, with artists and old-timers downing Blue Point ale and playing darts (320 Van Brunt St.; 718-797-4892). A bit to the north lies Brooklyn Collective, a design coop featuring hand-dyed Milton Carter T-shirts and chunky gold-chain bracelets by Jess Yam (198 Columbia St.; 718-596-6231; www.brooklyncollective.com). Red Hook isn't accessible via subway—indeed, its remoteness is part of the appeal—but the New York Water Taxi runs a shuttle every hour on the weekends from Pier 11, on the corner of Wall Street and South Street in downtown Manhattan (nywatertaxi.com).
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