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Onyx, Budapest

7–8 Vörösmarty Tér
Hungary Pest, 1051
Tel: 36 1 429 9023
view web site ›'s insider take:

Onyx, on Pest's pulsing Vörösmarty Square, is one of the rare Michelin-starred restaurants in all of post-Communist eastern Europe and also one of the few to be run by a woman—executive chef Szabina Szulló. In the kitchen, Szulló combines local ingredients with international techniques and vice versa: Monkfish fillets are paired with bacon from Mangalica hogs and a sauce of stewlike vegetable lecsó, while beef tenderloin goes even more tender with a cushion of buttery Hungarian foie gras. If your tastes run to minimalism, the ostentatious decor, including oversize floral and fleurs-de-lis patterns on the walls and onyx, walnut, and gilded accents, can be overwhelming. But the excellent old-world service makes up for any atmospheric shortcomings, and the restaurant's range of top-shelf Hungarian bottles has few equals (it includes such revered names as József Bock, Isztván Szepsy, and Judit Bodo's cultish Bott Pince, the Tokaj-based maker of dry, steely whites). With just 55 seats, dinner reservations are almost always necessary.—Evan Rail

Open Tuesdays through Fridays noon to 2:30 pm and 6:30 to 11 pm, Saturdays 6:30 to 11 pm.

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