Concierge.com's insider take:
San Telmo was once the city's wealthiest district, with row after row of neocolonial townhouses and mansions. An 1871 yellow-fever epidemic sent the barrio into long decline, but a gritty, streetwise crowd is starting to return, drawn by antiques markets, no-frills parrilla steakhouses, and swinging late-night bars. Aptly, the Cocker, a four-room design B&B, is a case study in urban rescue. Squeezed into a four-storey sliver of a once-grandiose mansion, it has pinotea floors, handmade wrought-iron window frames, and soaring ceilings along with renovated antique chairs, sofas, and beds, and even a Chappell grand piano, all displayed with theatrical flair in the five idiosyncratic rooms: Old balustrades now frame a monster bed in one room, and a four-poster supports a "floating" bathroom in another, while cushions, drapes, and yards of muslin transform ordinary nooks into intimate dens. The twisting corridors and spiral staircases invite exploration—but also present a challenge to those burdened with heavy luggage—eventually opening onto a pretty terrace garden planted with honeysuckle and jasmine.
From the editors of Condé Nast Traveler:
"Mi casa es su casa," promises the room card at this five-room B&B in the San Telmo district—and indeed the owners and sole staff, Aidan Pass and Ian Spink, live on the first floor. They also did most of the ingenious renovation on their nineteenth-century building. The rooms are creatively laid out, with crisp linens and eclectic furnishings (a headboard covered in flocked brocade; a bathroom and bed stacked one atop the other in glass vitrines), and each has a leafy veranda. A certain dexterity is required to climb the helixed outdoor staircases that lead to rooms on the upper floor, but such physical effort is well rewarded by the owner's generosity. Their cocker spaniel, for whom the hotel is named, is a docile presence, contributing to the homey vibe.2007 Hot List
When to go: Although spring and fall have the most pleasant weather, Buenos Aires is always exciting.
Which room to book: No. 19-03 is a duplex with a sitting space and a roof garden.Subscribe now to Condé Nast Traveler for just $1 an issue! ›
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