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El Cuartito, Buenos Aires

937 Talcahuano
Barrio Norte
Buenos Aires
Argentina 1013
Tel: 54 11 4816 1758's insider take:

Like Naples, New York, and Chicago, Buenos Aires is a town that loves pizza. The Porteño pie falls somewhere between New York's and Chicago's on the thickness scale, a style known as media masa. El Cuartito, the illustrious downtown pizzeria (you can't miss its enormous neon sign), has been pumping out quality pies and slices since 1934, and might be the best example of local pizza makers' particular craft. In a room papered over with fight posters, patrons feast on everything from the over-the-top Tutto Per Me (straining under a payload of tomato, mozzarella, ham, olives, peppers, and hard-boiled egg) to the simple fugazza, chewy crust topped only with sweet, lightly browned onions—no cheese or sauce. "Pizza needs time," goes El Cuartito's motto. "Your palate will appreciate the wait." And while you wait, make like the locals: Sip sweet Moscato and order a slab of faina (a polenta-like garbanzo-flour concoction) to lay over your slice.

Open Tuesdays through Sundays 11 to 1 am.

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