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Ølsen, Buenos Aires

5870 Gorriti
Palermo Hollywood
Buenos Aires
Tel: 54 11 4776 7677's insider take:

Germán Martitegui, the bald, goateed visionary behind this mod Nordic bistro (who's also exec chef at Casa Cruz and Tegui), has become the city's chef of the moment. It's housed in an artfully converted garage that channels the ghost of Finnish designer Alvar Aalto with its high ceilings, retro ski-chalet fireplace, and teak-and white-plastic appointments. But trendy trappings aside, the place has serious legs, and it's likely to be a favorite even after the hype has died down . It's probably the only place in town where you can order delicious tandoori-smoked salmon, cheese piroshkis (like little Russian ravioli), and deer meatballs, and toss it all back—skoal!—with aquavit and chili-infused vodka.

Open Tuesdays through Thursdays noon to 1 am, Fridays and Saturdays noon to 2 am, Sundays 10:30 am to 1 am.

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