see + do
Concierge.com's insider take:
There's a slew of teams around Buenos Aires, one of the great soccer towns, but Club Atlético Boca Juniors, dating back to 1905, is the one that inspires the maddest devotion. After all, Boca launched Diego Maradona, the compact dynamo who won a couple of World Cups for Argentina before heading into a star-crossed retirement, complete with drug abuse and a near-overdose of empanadas. You can catch Boca Juniors—clad in iconic blue and yellow, a color combo seen all over B.A.—at the beloved stadium known as La Bombonera ("the bonbon box"; capacity 49,000). Be sure to duck into the adjoining, and highly amusing, Museo de la Pasión Boquense, devoted to all things Boca.
If the salty Boca Juniors represent B.A.'s proud working class, their archrivals, River Plate, whose fans are known as Los Millionarios, represent the other extreme. El Estadio Monumental, River's state-of-the-art home, lives up to its name: It's the largest soccer facility in Argentina (capacity 57,921); it's safe and provides an actual seat to each paying hincha (fan). Wherever you go in Buenos Aires—or in Argentina, for that matter—be prepared to answer the question of whom you support, River or Boca. (You can always answer "Independiente," the third team in the contentious pecking order of Argentine fútbol.)
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