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Trip Plans
Buenos Aires Fall 2008
- Destinations:
- Argentina,
- Buenos Aires,
- Buenos Aires Province,
- Central + South America
Just returned from Buenos Aires in November 2008, with suitcases bulging with nifty shopping finds, and a belly bulging with great food and wine. We stayed in a one-bedroom apartment in Las Canitas, a lovely, leafy neighborhood to retreat to after a day spent exploring the city. (And the apartment was a great deal too: We used a rental service called Buenos Aires Habitat, and the folks there were friendly and helpful.)
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With its faded Italianate tenements (once the mansions of the Buenos Aires upper-crust) and cobbled calles, San Telmo is one of the most atmospheric of B.A.'s... more
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Aimed at the hip, partying crowd increasingly drawn to Buenos Aires' late-night pleasures, Home was the first hotel to open in fashionable Palermo Hollywood.... more
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Housed in a three-story mansion built in 1903 by the wealthy Allemand family, Milión encompasses three high-ceilinged dining rooms, two exterior terraces,... more
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Easily accessible from any of the Puerto Madero bridges, the expansive Costanera Sur ecological reserve—built over a landfill—feels worlds away from... more
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The tony enclave of Recoleta feels like the 16th arrondissement of Paris or Manhattan's Upper East Side. Its leafy streets are lined with ornate townhouses,... more
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It's still shocking to many porteños that Puerto Madero—once a run-down dock area—has now surpassed Recoleta as B.A.'s highest-rent district.... more
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Palermo is B.A.'s largest barrio, and, with its numerous sub-barrios and 350 acres of parkland, it feels like a city unto itself. There's the wonderful... more
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This sleek modernist slab on the edge of Palermo Chico—the choice address of B.A.'s television personalities and diplomats—was designed by a... more
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Buenos Aires is one of the greenest of world metropolises, with avenidas, calles, and plazas generously planted with grand, locustlike tipas (the branches look... more
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This welcoming green haven, built by the prolific French-Argentine landscape architect Carlos Thays in 1898, is an ideal place for a Sunday-afternoon ramble.... more
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Germán Martitegui, the bald, goateed visionary behind this mod Nordic bistro (and who also runs the kitchen at Casa Cruz), has become the city's chef of... more
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You know Sucre is hot the moment you step through the door. There's its sleek industrial ambience of exposed girders and pipes, the perfectly exfoliated... more
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You enter Bar Uriarte through its kitchen, an über-urban crush of brushed steel, bright spotlights, and gleaming utensils, exposed equally to diners and... more
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Scouring B.A.'s myriad boutiques clustered in Recoleta and Palermo Viejo can be an exhausting and hit-and-miss project. But the city's great strength is the... more
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The pillars of rural Argentinean life are its estancias, ranches built by the owners of sprawling properties on the fabled Pampas. Many were established by... more
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Photos
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