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Hostellerie des Clos, Chablis 

18 Rue Jules-Rathier
France 89800
Tel: 33 3 86 42 10 63
view web site ›'s insider take:

Don't expect surprises or compromises from this hotel and Michelin-starred restaurant in the middle of Chablis town. The 36 guest rooms have an old-fashioned, French country look, with overstuffed furniture, floral upholstery, thick carpets, and flowing drapes. Those on the top floor are the most atmospheric, with gabled windows under the sloping mansard roof. In the dining room (which overlooks a leafy back garden), the food is artfully presented and lighter than traditional preparations, yet an underlying rusticity reflects chef Michel Vignaud's roots in the nearby Morvan mountains. Like so many starred practitioners, Vignaud goes for variations on foie gras and seafood, but his classic oeufs en meurette (eggs poached in Irancy red wine), signature chicken-liver paté macerated in Chablis, and earthy sautéed sweetbreads are well worth sampling, too. The wine list includes hundreds of Burgundy's best bottlings; sommeliers lead Chablis tastings in the restaurant's cellar. If the prices here seem steep (prix fixe menus start at $55; à la carte can run upward of $130 per person) and you don't mind sitting cheek by jowl with fellow diners, head a few doors down to Le Bistrot des Grands Crus, where prix fixe menus start under $30 and you can sample Vignaud's peppery tripe sausage, garlicky snails, and boeuf bourguignon.—David Downie

Hotel and restaurant open late January through mid-December; restaurant open Mondays through Fridays 7:30 to 9 pm and Fridays through Sundays noon to 2 pm and 7:30 to 9 pm.

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