Concierge.com's insider take:
At this 12-table restaurant with faintly Asian decor in central Dijon, star chef Stéphane Derbord takes seasonal Burgundian ingredients and transforms them into works of culinary art. Calf's trotter wrapped in phyllo dough is an ethereal preparation; escargots à la nage is scented with cardamom. In season, you'll find pheasant torte with Burgundy truffles, or venison baked into a succulent shepherd's pie. Derbord is equally famous for his wine cellar, containing about 800 different bottlings that range from inexpensive organic Côtes d'Auxerre to $5,000 giants from Domaine de la Romanée Conti. A primarily business clientele settles into the upholstered armchairs during weekday lunch hours; join them and you can sample Derbord's $34 prix fixe. At dinnertime, these patrons are replaced by romantic couples willing to splurge upward of $80 per person for a prix fixe or $115 à la carte.—David Downie
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays noon to 1:45 pm and 7:30 to 9:15 pm; closed one week in February and two weeks in early August.
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