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Le P'tit Paradis, Beaune

25 Rue Paradis
France 21200
Tel: 33 3 80 24 91 00's insider take:

This small but stylish restaurant near Beaune's wine museum combines tradition and creativity without unnecessary complications. Chef Vanessa Laudat prepares everything from scratch, and while her menu follows the market, perennial favorites include rabbit terrine in tarragon mustard sauce, slow-simmered cumin-spiced pork jowl, and Charolais steak with a luscious Époisses sauce. If you still have room, try the wildly rich Toblerone chocolate mousse. Among the 100 wines on the list, you'll find good value for Maison Alex Gambal bottles and stellar vintages from Bouchard Père et Fils, plus rising star Alain Gras, and liqueurs from Joseph Cartron in Nuits-Saint-Georges. The 16 tables (10 inside, 6 on the terrace) are often filled with devoted regulars, while others wait their turn—a good reason to book two or three days in advance.—David Downie

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays noon to 2 pm and 7 to 11 pm; closed for two weeks in March, August, and December.

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