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Ma Cuisine, Beaune

Passage Sainte Hélène
France 21200
Tel: 33 3 80 22 30 22's insider take:

Local gourmets and winemakers favor this cozily cluttered restaurant for its rustic fare, casual atmosphere, and remarkable wine list (around 650 bottlings, most from Burgundy). Chef Fabienne Escoffier, née Parra, grew up watching chefs work at luxury hotel-restaurant Ermitage de Corton, near Beaune. That early training shows in her confident transformations of seasonal ingredients into authentic, delicious dishes as unfussy as the dining room's wooden tables and chairs. The â la carte (around $40 per person) and prix fixe menus ($20 to $30 for lunch) change often, but expect to eat succulent pork pâté, classic coq au vin, squab roasted in its own juices, beef stew, local goat's-milk cheeses, and fresh-fruit tarts. Wines by the glass are only $5 to $10, depending on the day's offerings, but you will also find some of the rarest and most expensive bottles in Burgundy. Reserve at least several days in advance, as this is one of the hottest tables in Beaune.—David Downie

Open Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays noon to 2 pm and 7 to 11 pm.

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