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Le Chassagne, Chassagne-Montrachet

4 Impasse des Chevenottes
France 21190
Tel: 33 3 80 21 94 94
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Imagine the cushy dining room of a well-off French family—Mozart on the sound system, the hum of hushed, reverent voices—add contemporary art to the walls, throw in wildly creative food that makes diners exclaim with delight, and you have an evening at Le Chassagne. Irrepressible chef Stéphane Léger is shamelessly ambitious in the kitchen. The menu follows the seasons and Léger's whims—some possibilities include giant prawns in a galanga-root vinaigrette, a savory foie gras crème brûlée with a scoop of green-apple-and-tarragon sorbet, or lobster meat mounted on veal short ribs with a side of squid-ink spaghetti. The surrealist desserts might include hazelnut praline biscuit with a "minestrone" of exotic fruit and roasted pineapple ice cream. There's also a surprise tasting menu: The chef will not describe its ever-changing dishes in advance, but you can expect wildly creative pairings of ingredients from around the globe. Plan to spend over $100 per person ordering à la carte, and much, much more if you select one of the rare bottles off the lengthy wine list. By the end of the night, you might feel like fending off an obsequious staffer as he swoops on your fallen napkin, but the neo-fusion food is exceptional, and you're unlikely to forget a meal here.—David Downie

Open Mondays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays noon to 1:45 pm and 7 to 9:30 pm, Sundays and Wednesdays noon to 1:45 pm, mid-January through July and mid-August through mid-December.

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