Concierge.com's insider take:
It's fairly safe to say that no matter how much of a foodie you are, you'll never have experienced anything quite like what you'll find at Homaro Cantu's austere, intimate restaurant. Cantu practices what is known as molecular gastronomy, a postmodern approach to cooking that is often multisensory. While the menu is constantly changing, and some dishes are prepared in familiar ways, Cantu likes to shoot lasers at vanilla beans to extract their essence and then coat the inside of a wineglass with it. He's also fond of carbonating his fruit salsas by adding CO2 to them under pressure, and freezing everything from artichoke purée to flapjacks in liquid nitrogen. The surprising thing is how delicious his science projects taste, and how popular the place has become with jet-setters, who have been known to fly in just for the opportunity to sample the Pacific bass, which is baked tableside with heirloom tomato broth and served in a futuristic-looking polymer box. Even more startling, perhaps, is how affordable the dining experience is: Five-course tasting meals start at just $70 per person.
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 5 pm to 11 pm.
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