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Girl & the Goat, Chicago

809 W. Randolph Street
Chicago , Illinois
Tel: 312 492 6262
view web site ›'s insider take:

When Stephanie Izard won season four of Top Chef, the victory was a tribute to her faultless sense of style as well as seamless cooking. Both skills pay off, handsomely, in her big, sexy beast of a restaurant, a Chicago West Loop It girl that distills every current dining trend. The requisite goth-goes-industrial (with a hint of barnyard) dining room is dressed up, or down, with beamed ceilings and the postapocalyptic touch of one charred wall. The clubby crowd finds its match in the endless team of athletic servers sprinting by in black T-shirts, and the menu is an all-things-to-all-hipsters smorgasbord—a scramble of locavore meets esoteric nose-to-tail-and-back-again butchering anchored by a subtle Mediterranean backbeat. Characteristic dishes include roasted cauliflower with pickled peppers and pine nuts, grilled baby octopus in a pistachio-lemon vinaigrette, goat chorizo flatbread, a full complement of innards and crudo, and pork fat doughnuts. While some of these busy plates need editing, the Girl & the Goat itself is already a perfect model of a smart, contemporary brasserie.—Raphael Kadushin

Open Sundays through Thursdays 4:30 to 11 pm and Fridays and Saturdays 4:30 pm to midnight.

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