Copenhagen

WHEN TO GO

There are four distinct seasons here, and one of them is definitely worth missing. With temperatures that rarely rise above freezing, especially in February, winter is challenging. Spring and fall are usually comfortable, though there's a tendency for heavy gray skies to linger. Summer—all the way from May through August—is the most fun and popular time to visit, when all the outdoor life is in full swing, daylight seems endless, and average temperatures, in July at least, are in the high 70s.

HOW TO GET THERE

SAS flies nonstop from Newark, Chicago, Seattle, and Washington, D.C. Continental Airlines also offers direct round-trip service to Copenhagen from Newark. Kastrup Airport lies about eight miles south of the city. The fastest and cheapest option into town is the 12-minute shuttle train to Copenhagen Central Station from Terminal 3 ($5). Otherwise, a 20-minute cab ride (longer during rush hour) will cost approximately $30.

GETTING AROUND

Bicycle is the most pleasant and efficient transportation method in flat, compact Copenhagen, with its ubiquitous cycle paths—so the city gives you free bikes. There's no catch: More than 100 stands harbor 2,000 distinctive solid-wheelers; you drop DKK 20 (about $3) in the handlebar lock, then get the coin back when you're through. But don't cross the lakes! The City Bike Patrol will blow the whistle and fine you; inside the City Bike zone, they'll do on-the-spot minor repairs (Fonden Bycyklen I København; 45-36-16-42-33; www.bycyklen.dk). At the Wonderful Copenhagen tourist information center opposite Tivoli's main entrance, pick up a free City Bike Map with self-guided harbor, ramparts, and citywide tours marked (www.visitcopenhagen.dk). The bikes stay out from April 19 until November 11.

If biking isn't your thing, cabs are available everywhere in the city, but they're expensive; expect to pay $15-20 if you're getting a cab from downtown to Nørrebro or the outer reaches of Vesterbro.