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Bertrams Hotel Guldsmeden, Copenhagen 
$$$$

Vesterbrogade 107
Copenhagen
Denmark 1620
Tel: 45 33 25 04 05
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Concierge.com's insider take:

One of two Copenhagen hotels owned by the small Guldsmeden group (don't confuse it with its more spartan, neighboring sister the Carlton), Bertrams is a perfect reflection of its free-spirited Vesterbro surroundings. It's a Copenhagen anomaly, bravely sacrificing impeccable styling for a guileless, raffish, sometimes goofy whimsy. The playful mood starts in the tiny lobby with a pair of black-and-white cowhide chairs, a Dali-worthy tree trunk that doubles as a coat hanger, and the smiliest desk clerks in town. Upstairs the small, whitewashed guestrooms have an equally sunny though more elegant Baltic-goes-colonial look: Balinese carved-wood four-posters; Pakistani rugs; high, firm Danish mattresses. Modern amenities (flat-screen TVs, free Wi-Fi) are in place, and it's worth it to pay the extra $40 to upgrade to a Superior room, with either a balcony or claw-foot tub. Whatever room style you choose, nab one in back. The tranquil, walled secret garden makes it quieter than Vesterbrogade's arty party brigade, who seem more like boozy yahoos than charming waifs at 3 a.m. A third hotel by the Guldsmeden group, Axel, is on its way to the Vesterbro neighborhood in June 2007.

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