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Noma, Copenhagen

Strandgade 93
Denmark 1401
Tel: 45 32 96 32 97
view web site ›'s insider take:

For many purists, the artistry and soul of contemporary Danish cooking begins and ends with Noma, considered one of the best restaurants in the world. Chef René Redzepi, who trained at those twin peaks of contemporary dining, French Laundry and El Bulli, painstakingly forages the complete Nordic harvest, from golden sea buckthorn to woodruff. He might pair Greenland shrimp with crisped potato skins, dill, and buttermilk powder; serve Danish Jersey beef flank with caramelized apple and sliced Gotland beets; or scoop an entire ecosystem onto a dessert plate by matching up local sheep's-milk mousse with an emerald-green granita composed of the garden sorrel those sheep grazed on. In his hands, something as homely as the rye kernel can look as gorgeous as a Perigord truffle. The setting itself—a converted historic warehouse beside the harbor that once stored whale fat—is a study in Nordic pride, with exposed brick, a heavily beamed ceiling, and sheepskin throws blanketing the backs of the '60s Scand chairs.

Closed Sundays.

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