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Copenhagen
Denmark 1175
Tel: 45 33 91 09 49
Concierge.com's insider take:
After seriously contemplating the Nordic root vegetable at Noma, chef Mads Refslund is foraging farther afield to pull together three, five, and seven-course tasting menus at Restaurant MR. This isn't fusion, though: It's a restrained brand of culinary border-hopping, to Spain, Italy, and southern France. Refslund dresses sweetbreads with roasted parsnips, wild garlic, and morel sauce, and pairs oysters with apples and celery. In his signature dessert, the chef co-opts farmhouse-favorite Danish beer-and-bread pudding (in Refslund's hands, organic beer from North Jutland) and tops it with a flamboyant, feathery mound of white-chocolate foam. Inhabiting three stories of a historic townhouse in the city center, Restaurant MR's quietly masculine dining room—all square-backed chairs and whitewashed walls—doesn't hint at Refslund's break for freedom.
Closed Sundays.
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